Friday, 27 December 2024

Kumara Parvatha: Taming the Toughest Trek in Karnataka in a day

The Kumara Parvatha trek, or KP trek as it's known, had been a stubborn fixture on my bucket list for ages. Reputedly the toughest trek in Karnataka, I’d been strategically delaying it, wanting to cut my teeth on a few smaller challenges first. Finally, the stars—and my friends—aligned. With a couple of trekking buddies equally eager to take on the beast, the plan finally materialized, and we signed up with the group 'Plan the Unplanned' for the weekend of November 9th, 2024.

9th Nov 2024: The Gathering and the Star Fort

We kicked off our adventure bright and early, boarding the bus from Yeshwantpur metro station at 7 AM. Our trekking troop comprised 18 enthusiastic souls, including two experienced trek leads. The journey began with a brilliant ice-breaker session: we were paired with strangers, had to learn about each other, and then introduce our new acquaintance to the group with a fun food-themed nickname starting with the first letter of their name. It was an instant way to break the ice and inject some laughs!

After a quick stop near Nelamangala to pick up rental trekking poles (a decision I'd later be profoundly thankful for), we had a self-sponsored breakfast near Kunigal around 8:30 AM. Back on the road, the time flew by with rounds of Dumb Charades and lively music.

A Historical Detour: Manjarabad Fort

Our first stop, around 12:30 PM, was the magnificent Manjarabad Fort in Sakleshpura. Despite the intense sunshine, we faced the roughly 200 steps up to the structure. This unique French-style, star-shaped fort was commissioned by Tipu Sultan in the late 18th century. Its eight-pointed design wasn't for aesthetics—it was a masterful defensive strategy, allowing for observation of attacks from all directions.


Climbing onto the fort’s walls offered spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. Inside, we found a striking plus-shaped stepwell at the center, surrounded by various locked rooms that once served as armories and barracks. After soaking in the history, we descended, quenched our thirst with refreshing tender coconut, and were back on the road by 1:30 PM.







A self-sponsored lunch stop near Kukke around 3 PM revitalized us before we finally reached our cozy homestay by 4:30 PM. We settled into a cottage with rooms accommodating four people, complete with an attached bath.

Temple, River, and Trek Briefing

After freshening up, several of us headed straight to the Kumaradhara river. The sight of plenty of big fish there was mesmerizing, and we happily fed them puffed rice. Later, the bus picked us up and dropped us all at the sacred Kukke Subramanya temple at 6:15 PM for darshan. I took the opportunity to browse the nearby shops, picking up some local spices.

Post-temple, we grabbed dinner nearby and returned to the homestay. The evening ended with a crucial trek briefing from our leads, detailing the challenging day ahead. We hit the sack around 10 PM, trying to bank as much rest as possible.



10th Nov 2024: The Ascent of KP

began early—a rude 4 AM wake-up call! We quickly got ready and headed to a hotel near the temple for an early breakfast of idly and chow chow bath. Crucially, we also collected our packed lunch—bisibele bath—from the same spot. By 6:15 AM, we were en route to the base point.
After a 1.5 km walk from the temple, we reached the check post. A quick warm-up and ID verification preceded the mandatory bag check by the forest guards. They were meticulous, noting every piece of plastic we carried and collecting a ₹3000 deposit from our group, which would only be refunded if we brought all our plastic trash back. With one last check of the toilets near the forest office, we were ready.







The Grueling Start

The ascent began at a crisp 7 AM, and the title of "toughest trek" immediately became apparent. The trail, though clear, was rocky and unforgiving from the first step. We benefited from a welcome canopy of trees, and the common goal was to cover as much ground as possible before the sun climbed too high. Everyone found their own rhythm; some sprinters shot ahead, others maintained a slow, steady pace, and my friends and I fell into a moderate stride. The first 2.5 kilometers were relentlessly uphill, with hardly any flat terrain for reprieve.






We eventually reached a fork in the path where a few of our group were resting. One trail led to a stream, but keen to conserve energy, the rest of us pushed on.

Bhattara Mane and the Forest Office

The next 2 kilometers were an unforgiving ascent. We soon spotted Bhattara Mane on the slopes—a famed resting point. Historically, this spot was popular for camping until regulations changed in January 2024. Trekkers still stop here to refill water and order food for their return journey, but as most of us were sufficiently stocked, we continued our climb. 


The trail flattened out slightly for the next 700 meters leading up to the Forest Office. We reached this point around 8:30 AM, and the sun was already beating down fiercely. After noting our numbers with the guard and resisting the urge to stop for too long at the taps, we pressed on. We could spot the Shesha parvatha & other hills from here. The group had naturally split by now, each person battling the mountain at their own speed.



Through the Grasslands to Kallu Mantapa

The next leg was even more challenging due to the increased inclination. We were now mostly exposed in the grasslands, sweating profusely in the bright sun. I was drinking loads of water, supplementing with an electrolyte mix, and stopping every few meters to catch my breath. After about 2.5 km, the sound of a stream was music to my ears. I washed my face—the cool, clean water was incredibly refreshing—and refilled a bottle.

Another 500 meters of uphill struggle brought me to Kallu Mantapa, a welcome sight where several people, including my friends and some group members, were resting. We took a much-needed break, snacking and hydrating. Seeing others applying ointments to ease spasms and leg pain was a stark reminder of the trek’s difficulty. Determined, we resumed the hike around 11 AM.


The Snake's Hood and the Final Push

The trail only got steeper. Surrounded by vast grasslands with the imposing Shesha Parvata always in view, we pushed through. After roughly 2.5 km of this brutal climb, we reached the Shesha Parvata peak. This peak is named for its rocks, which, when viewed from the side, resemble a snake’s hood. My friends and I celebrated the view with photos, before joining the majority of our group who had already assembled there.












We had to descend about 500 meters before starting the final 700-meter climb to the ultimate peak. Kumara Parvata was now in sight, beckoning from a distance.
















The last 500 meters were the most taxing: a rocky, difficult terrain. The presence of a huge rock with a stream flowing over it forced us to carefully place our feet on the grooves to ascend.












Finally, at 1 PM, I reached the summit!

It wasn't overly crowded. After meeting the rest of the early arrivals, we headed to a secluded viewpoint nestled amidst the bushes to have our hard-earned lunch. I was elated: all but three members of our group had successfully completed the grueling ascent! We took numerous photos, shared stories of the climb, and posed for a final group picture before beginning the descent at 2 PM. We also noted the small, conical Shiva temple constructed with stones on the mountaintop.


The Long Way Down

The initial descent offered slightly pleasant weather, but the sun soon returned, making the long walk down incredibly tiring. My kneecap support proved invaluable, allowing me to descend at a rapid pace. I reached Kallu Mantapa around 3:30 PM. My legs were aching, so I applied ointment and rested.

I waited for about 20 minutes, but no one from my group appeared. I soon realized others were taking a different downhill path. Spotting a friend, I quickly joined them and resumed my descent. 


I refilled my water bottles at the stream and continued at a relatively quick pace, accompanied by one of our trek leads. The descent felt unending. I had a couple of near-slips, but thankfully managed to keep my footing. We reached the Forest Office by 4:30 PM. A quick wash of the hands and face was instantly refreshing. After a short rest, we continued our march.

Darkness Falls

After 5:45 PM, the light began to fade rapidly. The path seemed to stretch on forever, but a co-trekker's headlamp saved the day. Our trek lead used it to navigate, while others relied on their phones for light, which inevitably slowed our pace.



Finally, at 6:40 PM, we reached the check post. We proudly presented all our collected plastics to the forest guards. By then, half of our group had already finished, though my two friends were still descending about 3 km behind us.

We walked to the temple area, had dinner at a hotel, and were soon joined by my friends. An auto ride took us back to the cottage where I enjoyed a much-needed hot bath. I packed my bags and rested until the rest of the group arrived around 10 PM. We left the cottage at 11 PM, beginning the long ride back to Bangalore.

Exhausted, with aches and pains in every part of our bodies, we all agreed: it was completely worth it. We arrived in Bangalore around 4:30 AM on November 11th. I bid farewell to everyone and got off at Yeshwantpur metro station at 4:50 AM. I was home by 6:00 AM, already reliving the epic conquest of Kumara Parvatha.



Thursday, 26 December 2024

Bandaje Falls Trek: The Roaring Lion and the Wallpaper Falls

September 13, 2024: The Bumpy Start

The adventure began on the night of September 13, 2024, as I linked up with Plan the Unplanned for a winter trek to Bandaje Falls. At 10:30 PM, I boarded their mini-bus at the Yeshwantpur metro station. Our group was a modest 15 trekkers, led by two fantastic guides. The journey quickly turned social with a mandatory ice-breaker session: we paired up with strangers, got to know them, and then introduced them to the whole group. It was a great way to bond, even if the road proved to be a bumpy, winding challenge all the way to the Western Ghats.

September 14, 2024: Summit and Soak

Misty Arrival and The Canopy Climb

We finally pulled into Misty Hut Homestay in the village of Sunkashale at 4:30 AM. After grabbing a few hours of much-needed sleep, we woke up, freshened up, and fueled ourselves with Uppit (a perfect local breakfast). 






At 7:15 AM, the real fun began with a thrilling 20-minute jeep ride to the trek's starting point. By 7:45 AM, with our local guide leading the way, we started the ascent.










The initial 1 km was a welcome challenge: a steep ascent in spots, but wonderfully protected by a dense canopy of trees overhead, providing continuous shade. The path was extremely narrow—barely wide enough for one person—making it a single-file climb. I was thankful I'd rented a trek pole; it was indispensable right from the start.













The Grassy Ridge and The Roaring Lion

Forty minutes in, the world opened up. We burst out of the jungle onto the vast, sunny grasslands. The shade was gone, and the sun was already beating down hard, but the magnificent, rolling views kept us focused. The rest of the trek was a roughly 6 km walk along a narrow, well-defined path winding from one hill to the next. The overall ascent wasn't overly steep, but we knew a decent descent lay ahead before the falls.





I took plenty of breaks to recharge with energy bars and water as we climbed towards the highest point at about 5,000 ft. Although the distant mountains were partially obscured by misty fog, we pressed on. Soon, we encountered the aptly named Roaring Lion Viewpoint—a massive, protruding boulder on the hilltop that genuinely resembled a lion mid-roar from our distance.












Reaching the Cascade

The final 500 meters was the trickiest part: a steep, slippery descent over loose rocks and rubble with barely a visible path. 












Finally, at 11:00 AM, after covering 7 km, I arrived at the majestic Bandaje Falls. We were standing right at the top of the 200 ft cascade on a beautiful, rocky terrain.

Thankfully, we beat the initial rush. I immediately snapped some photos and enjoyed the ultimate reward: plunging my feet into the icy, cold stream. As the rest of the group trickled in, we took a break, but by 12:00 noon, the area had gotten crowded and fiercely sunny. We quickly retreated to a shady spot to enjoy our packed lunch of delicious Puliyogare, courteously prepared by our homestay.


The Fort of Veera Ballala I

The 7 km return trek kicked off at 12:30 PM. I pushed ahead of the group, and by 2:30 PM, I arrived at Ballalarayana Durga Fort. The trail was quiet—a few quick directions from fellow trekkers were all I needed to find the way. This fort, dating back to the 12th century and built by the Hoysala ruler Veera Ballala I, was a stunning piece of history.

Sadly, it’s now a magnificent ruin; only fragments of walls remain, with wild plants and trees growing freely inside, and cattle peacefully grazing outside. 


The fort's viewpoint offered a panoramic sight of the neighboring mountains. After taking some photos, I started the final descent.
 











Evening Thrills

I ran into a few group members on the way down, reaching the starting point by 3:40 PM. I grabbed a quick tea from the shop outside, where trekkers were busy refuelling. Right there was the Ranijhari Viewpoint—a quick 200-meter climb—offering one last breathtaking look at the surrounding peaks. I could spot a very faint waterfall trickling from a distant cliff and a stream snaking through the deep valley below.






After I returned, we waited for the rest of our crew before piling into the jeep for the return trip—and let me tell you, that jeep ride was an adventure in itself! We made it back to the homestay by 4:45 PM, showered, and settled in for coffee and snacks. The evening was a blast: we sat in a circle playing classic travel games like One Up One Down and Green Glass Door, swapping horror stories until dinner. Dinner at 8:30 PM was simple but satisfying: chapati, paneer gravy, rice, sambhar, and rasam. We capped off the night with a hilarious round of Mafia before hitting the sack around midnight.


September 15, 2024: Eramayi Falls and Farewell

We kicked off September 15, 2024, by waking up and freshening up around 7:00 AM. A few of us took a gentle walk just to grab that morning coffee fix. After a classic breakfast of Idly, sambar, and chutney, we departed the homestay at 8:50 AM.

Two hours later, we arrived near Eramayi Falls. We dropped our bags at a nearby homestay, quickly changed into swim clothes, and took another short jeep ride to the location. The falls truly lived up to the hype—it was a tiered cascade that looked like it was ripped straight from a desktop wallpaper!

We were lucky to find it almost deserted. The group dove right into the water; it was cold at first, but the hot weather soon made it perfect. We stood under the powerful spray for a while, and some of us even ventured up to the secluded upper tier, where we had the place entirely to ourselves for splashing and photos.





We left the falls and headed back to the homestay around 1:00 PM for lunch, then officially started our long journey back to Bangalore. The bus ride was filled with music, games, and laughter as we said goodbye to the mountains. After a final stop for coffee and snacks near Hassan, I finally stepped off the bus at the Goraguntepalya metro station at 9:00 PM. Bidding farewell to my new trekking friends, I took the metro home, already dreaming of the next "unplanned" adventure.