Into the Mist: Hiking Kudremukha's Emerald Green Trails

 

September 30, 2022 — The Unplanned Beginning

Kicking off the adventure with the aptly named 'Plan the Unplanned' group, I boarded the 20-seater minibus at Yeshwantpur metro station around 9 PM. The journey started with an essential icebreaker: '2 Truths and a Lie.' The group instantly felt like a dynamic mix, notably featuring an 11-year-old girl trekking with her mother and a lively 46-year-old man, both deeply involved in the group activities.

We stopped for a quick break at a roadside restaurant at 10:30 PM. Since I'd already eaten, I skipped the meal, but the stop served as an unforeseen prelude to the mountain weather: it began to rain heavily. Once the group was ready, we resumed our journey at 11:15 PM, leaving the city lights behind.

October 1, 2022 — Trail, Trials, and Triumph

A Rough Start and a Rigid Rule

Our luck with the bus ran out just 10 km from the homestay. A faulty fuel pipe had drained our tank, stalling the minibus. Our capable trek lead and driver quickly improvised, managing to acquire two bottles of fuel to get us moving again. This delay meant we pulled up to the homestay around 7:30 AM, an hour later than planned.

After a quick cleanup and a hearty breakfast, it was time to pack. Given that Kudremukha is a strict plastic-free zone, we meticulously removed all plastic wrappers, transferring snacks into lunch boxes—a firm reminder that we were entering a protected wilderness.

The Bone-Rattling Ride

The ride to the base point was an adventure in itself. The jeep journey was a bone-rattling experience, made even more chaotic by jeeps coming both ways on the narrow track. Yet, the stunning views of the surrounding valleys, even from the midst of the chaos, made the 30-minute ordeal worthwhile.

We finally arrived at the base camp, waiting briefly for the remaining two jeeps, bringing our trekking group to 21 (including four who joined directly at the homestay). With a local guide joining us, our official ascent began at 9:15 AM.

Green Valleys and Gurgling Streams (0-2 km)

Just 200 meters into the trail, we paused at the Forest Department office for a mandatory bag check before being allowed to proceed. The initial 2 kilometers were relatively gentle, defined by rolling ups and downs. We were fully immersed, surrounded by vast, open green mountains and deep valleys. The air was alive with the constant, soothing gurgling of unseen streams, and we crossed a few small rivulets along the way.

Thirty minutes in, around the 2 km mark, we hit a turning point marked by a majestic, huge tree. Here, the landscape abruptly shifted: the open fields gave way to a thicker, enveloping jungle. Dense fog rolled in, immediately obscuring the distant peaks and adding an element of mystery to the narrow, single-file path.

The Steep Test of Endurance (4 km and Beyond)

About an hour after starting, we reached the 4 km mark, our last official stop as a full group for photos. Beyond this point, the trail intensified dramatically. The inclination now hit a brutal, near 70-degree angle in one stretch—a true test of endurance. We were now moving at our own pace, the group separating based on stamina. I made sure to always keep at least one familiar face from my group within sight, grateful that the path remained clear due to the number of other trekkers that day.

By 11 AM, we reached the halfway mark: 'Onti Mara' (Single Tree). The solitary silhouette offered a breathtaking, panoramic view of the mountain ranges—a moment of pure reward. After refilling on water, chocolates, and biscuits, and taking photos, we started again after 15 minutes, as the second half of the group caught up. The environment changed yet again: the jungle thickened, the streams on our path grew deeper, and the trails narrowed further, intermittently punctuated by steep, open fields.

The Misty Summit Push

The final 3 km were a grueling battle of willpower. About 3 km from the summit, we found a stream of fresh, crystal-clear water. I took the opportunity to wash my face and felt instantly refreshed, filling my bottle with the sweet water.

Despite the momentary boost, the final stretch was profoundly exhausting. The path, relentlessly snaking and turning, felt exponentially longer than three kilometers. With the mist so thick I could barely see beyond a few feet, and my glasses fogged immediately, the ascent became a blurry, damp crawl. I kept asking returning trekkers for reassurance, and though they continuously said, "It is very near," it took over half an hour to finally reach the top.

The Peak and the Painful Descent

At last, around 1 PM, I crested the summit. The valleys were completely shrouded in fog, denying us the grand view, but I was relieved to find a tower and a phone signal. I immediately messaged my family. Seven of us from the group eventually gathered, shared our packed lunch, and took turns posing with the iconic 'Kudremukha Peak' board.

At 1:40 PM, the guards started ushering us off—we had a strict 6 PM deadline to reach the base.

The descent was immediately taxing. Gravity became an enemy, pulling me down while the rocky path mercilessly pressed against my toes, sending jarring pain through my knees and ankles. Knowing that stopping would kill my momentum, I kept moving, even as the rain started. I pulled on my raincoat and continued, navigating water that was now flowing along the trek path. I slipped a few times but managed to stay upright, witnessing others less fortunate. The streams had swelled significantly due to the downpour. I was well ahead of my main group, but the path was easy to follow. I slowed my pace on the steepest sections, and near the end, another member of my group caught up. We reached the base at 5 PM.

Brutal Return and Bonfire Sleep

The homestay owners were waiting and quickly loaded us up. The return journey by open jeep proved even more brutal than the first leg. The curvy, slopy path was so jarring that sitting became untenable; I was constantly being sandwiched and hitting the iron bars. I chose to stand, holding the bars tightly to avoid falling.

Thirty minutes later, we arrived back at the homestay. We had tea and snacks, and I immediately took a lukewarm bath to soothe my aching muscles. After a short nap, we gathered for dinner around 9 PM. A bonfire was lit, but my exhaustion was total. I chose sleep over socializing.

October 2, 2022 — Scenic Detours

We woke up at 6 AM, refreshed and ready for the relaxed journey home. After freshening up, a few of us sourced local treasures like coffee and spices. Following a final breakfast, we departed the homestay.

Our first scenic stop was a beautiful tea estate, famous as a shooting location for the Kannada movie Love Mocktail. We spent time taking photos there before heading to Kalasa.

From Kalasa, we took a jeep to Amba Theertha, a serene spot where a clear river flowed powerfully through massive boulders. Next was Vashista Theertha, notable for its dramatic hanging bridge. After soaking up the peaceful atmosphere, we started the long drive back to Bangalore at 11:30 AM.

We stopped for a quick bakery break around 1 PM and a proper lunch and coffee stop at 4 PM. We finally arrived in Bangalore at 8:45 PM. I took the metro from Gottigere station, reaching home by 9:45 PM, exhausted but deeply satisfied with the adventure.