Trip to Meghalaya & Guwahati

I went to Meghalaya in November 2022. My colleague was getting married in Guwahati. Since Meghalaya was very close, I decided to go there. My colleague and friend Kiran accompanied me. 

18th Nov 2022

I left home at 5:20 AM and reached airport by 6:10 AM. We had breakfast at airport at 7:30 AM and boarded the flight at 8:15. We reached Guwahati at 11:30. It was 12 when we came out of the airport. It was very sunny. Our driver Nayanmani Sharma was waiting. We started towards Shillong. We stopped at a Punjabi Dhaba on the way for lunch at 1:30 & had onion parathas (OK-OK). We saw many stalls selling pineapples on the way. The road was very well maintained in the ghat section.

We reached Umaiam lake at 3. It was a very huge lake with great views. We took a few photos from the view point which was at an altitude. There was some boating going on below. We dint go there. 

The weather was getting cooler now. We reached Shillong at 4. We went to police bazar, a shopping area at the city center. It was quite crowded. We had coffee and momos in a restaurant. We roamed around, did some shopping. It was very dark by 5! We headed to our hotel and reached by 6:30. The roads were narrow and hence there was traffic jam. 

We freshened up a little in our room and went to a hotel nearby around 7:30. We had fried rice and Veg Manchurian (which was very tasty). Then we returned to our room and retired to bed. The night was very chilly (probably around 10 degrees).

19th Nov 2022

We had breakfast at 7:30 and first, we reached elephant falls by 8:45. It was a 3 tiered falls. We had to climb down a bit to reach the base of the falls. By 9 we headed towards Cherapunji.

The drive was very good with the well maintained road snaking through the mountains. The views were also great with valleys on one side & hills on the other side of the road. The weather was surprisingly sunny. I was really surprised as as a kid, I had read that Cherapunji was the wettest place in India. I was also sad to see a lot of hills being mined for stones. We stopped in a view point to take photos.

Our first stop in Cherapunji was Dainthlen falls at around 11. The last 6 km was a kaccha road with muddy trail & stones. It took a long time to drive to the falls. There were not a lot of people there. We could go till the tip of the falls. We crossed it and went to the other side & got good views of the falls. Due to lean monsoon that year, the water flow was not that much.

Our next stop was very brief at the viewpoint of seven sisters falls at 12 noon. There were faint streams of water here and there due to poor monsoon.

We reached Thangkarang park around 12:40. There was a view point there from where we could see Bangladesh (beyond the mountains). We could also see a distant waterfall & a road snaking through the lush green hills. Other than this it was just like any other park with greenery & a fountain. We were hungry, but we had some snacks in our car itself.

Our next stop was at Mawsmai caves around 1:30. This cave is on top of a hill. We climbed about a 100 stairs & entered the cave. As usual it was full of stalactites & stalagmites. Water was dripping from the roof in many places. A couple of passages in the caves were very narrow and small that I had to bend and pass. There were openings in the ceiling in some places where we could see the trees. It was not too deep, & was a good & short caving experience. 

Next we made a stop at the Nokhalikai falls view point at 2. We saw water fall from a great height into a pool of turquoise blue and then flow further into a valley. Even with modest amount of water this falls looked great. Next we had lunch at a restaurant called orange roots. That was the only decent one in Cherapunji.

Our last stop for the day was at garden of caves at 3:40. I'd definitely recommend this place as it contains caves, falls & lot of greenery. It has 11 spots inside including water falls in the middle of the cave, cave behind a waterfall & various interesting formations fetus and heart shaped pits in stone. It took almost an hour to explore this place. The sun was down by 4 & it started to get cooler. We had to climb up & down a bit to reach certain spots.

We started back to Shillong and as we approached Shillong, there was traffic jam and we reached our room by 7:30. On the way we stopped for tea & there we could see the view of Shillong. We had dinner at a south Indian restaurant called Southern Taste.

20th November 2022

We had a long day ahead & a long distance to cover. So we woke up at 5, had breakfast at room and left for Dawki at 6:30. After a 2 hour drive and 15 retro songs later, we reached Krang Suri falls. We had to climb down a set of stairs to reach the waterfall. It was really great. There was no one else there & it felt like a private waterfall. There was a cave behind the curtain of the falls. There were a lot of boulders. The pool formed by the falls was turquoise blue. The water was transparent and clean. It was also very cold. We spent almost an hour there taking photos & just drinking in the calm environment. We drank a litchi drink and had some biscuits and started to Dawki around 10.

We reached Bangladesh border around 11. The BSF Jawans were guarding the border gate. There was also a check post on Indian side. It was a humble border with a stone marking the post number and an arch saying 'India Bangladesh friendship gate'. The road leading to the border was quite dirty. The flags of both countries were on the flag posts on each side. There were no guards on the Bangladesh side of the border.

Our next stop was Umgnot river at 11:30. While going there, we had to drive into Bangladesh for a few meters as the road on the Indian side was still being constructed. This river is transparent and we can see the pebbles, boulders on the bed of the river clearly. We took a boat ride. The flow of the river was not that much. There were quite a few people, yet, the water was not muddy. It was very clear and cold too. We could also see some fish here and there. it was almost 30 minute boat ride back & forth. There was a bridge above the river. We were taken till a point where there were currents in the river due to rocks and then back.

Next we headed to Mawlynnong village, the cleanest village in Asia. We reached around 1:30 We had lunch there. Then we began to explore the village. It was indeed very clean. There were many cottage houses, it really seemed like a resort than a natural settlement. We couldn't spot a lot of locals there. There was a mass happening at a church as it was a Sunday.

Our last stop for the day was the living roots bridge at a nearby village called Rivai. We reached there around 2:45. The bridge was built by intertwining roots of trees. It takes several years to create this bridge. There was not much water under the bridge. So we could climb down as well. This was a pretty good place. We spent half an hour here. And then headed back to Shillong. It was a long journey and we reached our hotel around 7. We had dinner at hotel itself as we were tired from the long journey.

21st November 2022

This day, we got ready at leisure, had breakfast at our hotel and headed to Laitlum Canyons at around 8. We reached around 8:40. This has very good view points. The canyon was green and there was a small stream (with very little water) snaking its way in the valley. It was quite windy too. It wasn't that crowded. We spent an hour there enjoying the view. Then we headed back to Shillong. 

There was so much traffic in Shillong. It took almost an hour to cover a distance of 7 km in the city. The roads are very narrow and has two way traffic and has mostly cars on the roads. We finally reached the Ward's lake at 12. It was cherry blossom season & there were cherry blossom trees in full bloom all around the lake. There were many people there as there was a literary fest going on. This was the first time I saw cherry blossom trees. The government had organized a cherry blossom festival for the week after. 

Next we went to the cathedral church at 2. There were not many people as it was way past prayer time. On our way back, we tried to search for a momo's place on the way. But unfortunately the 3 places that we checked out did not have any vegetarian momos. Finally we went back to the hotel. I had lunch at a hotel nearby. Then in the evening, we went to Police bazar again as we had the evening free & my friend wanted to do some shopping.

22nd November 2022

We checked out of our hotel at 6:30 and started to Guwahati. We bought pineapple on the way (which we later found to be very sour). We reached Guwahati at around 9. We found that the ferry to visit Umananda island was not to arrive for an hour. So we headed to Kamakhya temple. This is a famous shaktipeeth where the goddess is worshipped in the form of a yoni. This temple was on a small hill and as we climbed the steps, both sides were lined with shops selling worship articles. When we reached the temple entrance around 9:45, we kept our slippers in a shop. Then contrary to all the online information, there is no concept of VIP/special darshan tickets. The shop owner told that it typically takes 3-4 hours in the queue & he recommended we approach a pundit (locally called panda) for a quick darshan.

We went inside and at gate 2, there was a pandit who took us in to the room in front of the sanctum. Here a symbolic small idol of the goddess was kept. He chanted a few hymns and gave us flowers & the holy water from the sanctum sanctorum. Then we went around the temple. Towards one end there was a hall where a few animals (a buffalo, a goat, hens etc) were being readied to be sacrificed. (Yes, animal sacrifice is still practiced here). Then we headed back downhill around 10:20.

Next we went to the ferry on the banks of Brahmaputra. This ferry took us to a small island that contained a Shiva temple. The ferry took its own sweet time to depart (till it was filled). The river was also quite dirty and there wasn't a lot of water. It was not very far from the bank though. There was a hill in that island. After climbing around 150 odd steps, we reached the Umananda temple. We stood in the queue. The sanctum is below the ground level and has a Linga (believed to be self manifest). The pandits were taking their own sweet time with each person. We were made to sit in front of the Linga and touch it and they chanted a few hymns and then we headed back tot he ferry. The ferry arrived at 12:45.

Then our driver recommended a good restaurant for lunch. After lunch, we bought some tea powder. Then we reached the hotel around 3. We freshened up, watched a few stuff on TV and then got ready for the wedding. My friend who was getting married had arranged the hotel, cab to and fro etc. So we reached the wedding venue at 7:30, spent some time there & headed back to the hotel in an e-autorickshaw. There were many e-autos there.

23rd November 2022

We had breakfast at our hotel & started to the airport around 8. We stopped at a restaurant on the way and got some packed samosas for our flight. My friend bought some sweets. Then we reached our airport at 9:45. We arrived at Bangalore at 4.

Into the Mist: Hiking Kudremukha's Emerald Green Trails

 

September 30, 2022 — The Unplanned Beginning

Kicking off the adventure with the aptly named 'Plan the Unplanned' group, I boarded the 20-seater minibus at Yeshwantpur metro station around 9 PM. The journey started with an essential icebreaker: '2 Truths and a Lie.' The group instantly felt like a dynamic mix, notably featuring an 11-year-old girl trekking with her mother and a lively 46-year-old man, both deeply involved in the group activities.

We stopped for a quick break at a roadside restaurant at 10:30 PM. Since I'd already eaten, I skipped the meal, but the stop served as an unforeseen prelude to the mountain weather: it began to rain heavily. Once the group was ready, we resumed our journey at 11:15 PM, leaving the city lights behind.

October 1, 2022 — Trail, Trials, and Triumph

A Rough Start and a Rigid Rule

Our luck with the bus ran out just 10 km from the homestay. A faulty fuel pipe had drained our tank, stalling the minibus. Our capable trek lead and driver quickly improvised, managing to acquire two bottles of fuel to get us moving again. This delay meant we pulled up to the homestay around 7:30 AM, an hour later than planned.

After a quick cleanup and a hearty breakfast, it was time to pack. Given that Kudremukha is a strict plastic-free zone, we meticulously removed all plastic wrappers, transferring snacks into lunch boxes—a firm reminder that we were entering a protected wilderness.

The Bone-Rattling Ride

The ride to the base point was an adventure in itself. The jeep journey was a bone-rattling experience, made even more chaotic by jeeps coming both ways on the narrow track. Yet, the stunning views of the surrounding valleys, even from the midst of the chaos, made the 30-minute ordeal worthwhile.

We finally arrived at the base camp, waiting briefly for the remaining two jeeps, bringing our trekking group to 21 (including four who joined directly at the homestay). With a local guide joining us, our official ascent began at 9:15 AM.

Green Valleys and Gurgling Streams (0-2 km)

Just 200 meters into the trail, we paused at the Forest Department office for a mandatory bag check before being allowed to proceed. The initial 2 kilometers were relatively gentle, defined by rolling ups and downs. We were fully immersed, surrounded by vast, open green mountains and deep valleys. The air was alive with the constant, soothing gurgling of unseen streams, and we crossed a few small rivulets along the way.

Thirty minutes in, around the 2 km mark, we hit a turning point marked by a majestic, huge tree. Here, the landscape abruptly shifted: the open fields gave way to a thicker, enveloping jungle. Dense fog rolled in, immediately obscuring the distant peaks and adding an element of mystery to the narrow, single-file path.

The Steep Test of Endurance (4 km and Beyond)

About an hour after starting, we reached the 4 km mark, our last official stop as a full group for photos. Beyond this point, the trail intensified dramatically. The inclination now hit a brutal, near 70-degree angle in one stretch—a true test of endurance. We were now moving at our own pace, the group separating based on stamina. I made sure to always keep at least one familiar face from my group within sight, grateful that the path remained clear due to the number of other trekkers that day.

By 11 AM, we reached the halfway mark: 'Onti Mara' (Single Tree). The solitary silhouette offered a breathtaking, panoramic view of the mountain ranges—a moment of pure reward. After refilling on water, chocolates, and biscuits, and taking photos, we started again after 15 minutes, as the second half of the group caught up. The environment changed yet again: the jungle thickened, the streams on our path grew deeper, and the trails narrowed further, intermittently punctuated by steep, open fields.

The Misty Summit Push

The final 3 km were a grueling battle of willpower. About 3 km from the summit, we found a stream of fresh, crystal-clear water. I took the opportunity to wash my face and felt instantly refreshed, filling my bottle with the sweet water.

Despite the momentary boost, the final stretch was profoundly exhausting. The path, relentlessly snaking and turning, felt exponentially longer than three kilometers. With the mist so thick I could barely see beyond a few feet, and my glasses fogged immediately, the ascent became a blurry, damp crawl. I kept asking returning trekkers for reassurance, and though they continuously said, "It is very near," it took over half an hour to finally reach the top.

The Peak and the Painful Descent

At last, around 1 PM, I crested the summit. The valleys were completely shrouded in fog, denying us the grand view, but I was relieved to find a tower and a phone signal. I immediately messaged my family. Seven of us from the group eventually gathered, shared our packed lunch, and took turns posing with the iconic 'Kudremukha Peak' board.

At 1:40 PM, the guards started ushering us off—we had a strict 6 PM deadline to reach the base.

The descent was immediately taxing. Gravity became an enemy, pulling me down while the rocky path mercilessly pressed against my toes, sending jarring pain through my knees and ankles. Knowing that stopping would kill my momentum, I kept moving, even as the rain started. I pulled on my raincoat and continued, navigating water that was now flowing along the trek path. I slipped a few times but managed to stay upright, witnessing others less fortunate. The streams had swelled significantly due to the downpour. I was well ahead of my main group, but the path was easy to follow. I slowed my pace on the steepest sections, and near the end, another member of my group caught up. We reached the base at 5 PM.

Brutal Return and Bonfire Sleep

The homestay owners were waiting and quickly loaded us up. The return journey by open jeep proved even more brutal than the first leg. The curvy, slopy path was so jarring that sitting became untenable; I was constantly being sandwiched and hitting the iron bars. I chose to stand, holding the bars tightly to avoid falling.

Thirty minutes later, we arrived back at the homestay. We had tea and snacks, and I immediately took a lukewarm bath to soothe my aching muscles. After a short nap, we gathered for dinner around 9 PM. A bonfire was lit, but my exhaustion was total. I chose sleep over socializing.

October 2, 2022 — Scenic Detours

We woke up at 6 AM, refreshed and ready for the relaxed journey home. After freshening up, a few of us sourced local treasures like coffee and spices. Following a final breakfast, we departed the homestay.

Our first scenic stop was a beautiful tea estate, famous as a shooting location for the Kannada movie Love Mocktail. We spent time taking photos there before heading to Kalasa.

From Kalasa, we took a jeep to Amba Theertha, a serene spot where a clear river flowed powerfully through massive boulders. Next was Vashista Theertha, notable for its dramatic hanging bridge. After soaking up the peaceful atmosphere, we started the long drive back to Bangalore at 11:30 AM.

We stopped for a quick bakery break around 1 PM and a proper lunch and coffee stop at 4 PM. We finally arrived in Bangalore at 8:45 PM. I took the metro from Gottigere station, reaching home by 9:45 PM, exhausted but deeply satisfied with the adventure.